dimecres, 18 de maig de 2011

UN DÍA EN EL MONASTERIO BUDISTA DEL GARRAF



Los rayos del sol caen con fuerza sobre la arena de la playa y el mar brilla a lo lejos. Tomamos una salida a la derecha y comenzamos a subir por las montañas del Garraf con el coche. Nos dirigimos al Monasterio budista del Garraf, una institución situada en el Palau Novella, dentro del Parque Natural del Garraf. Vegetación austera, aire con olor a mar y un cielo despejado. La comunidad budista de Sayka Tashi Ling fue creada en el año 1985. Primero se situaron en la ciudad de Sabadell y en el año 1996 de trasladaron al actual Monasterio del Garraf, que se convirtió en la primera sede de la comunidad. Con los años, crearon otra sede en Castellón y más tarde en Cuzco (Perú), además de otros centros ciudad y un orfanato en el Nepal.

Voy a encontrarme con el monje que me hará de guía durante el día. Se llama Ngagpa Jamyang Rinchen (Jordi Gómez López). Después de saludarme con una amplia sonrisa, me comenta que entró al monasterio porque sus padres practicaban la religión, aunque admite que al principio no se mostró muy interesado por ella y solo comenzó a informarse más al entrar en la facultad. Nos sentamos en una mesa de la terraza del bar, donde corre el aire, y comenzamos a charlar sobre el monasterio. Lo visitan alrededor de 100.000 personas cada año entre curiosos, simpatizantes y aprendices.

Jordi mantiene el semblante serio, pero su voz es pausada y trata de medir las palabras que van trazando su discurso. Cuando le pregunto que es lo que le ha aportado el budismo como filosofía de vida, me responde que sobretodo libertad y también una forma de conectar más amablemente con sus límites, pero aclara que para él “la libertad no es vivir en un lugar democrático, donde puedas decidir y tener una opinión libre, aunque eso esté bien” ya que considera que “la auténtica dictadura no es externa sino interna”. Esto es así porque, según el budismo, existe un concepto que se llama el “no-yo” que establece que no somos aquello que vivimos, aquello que tenemos, experimentamos, etc. porque podemos distinguir entre el fenómeno y la conciencia que tenemos de éste.

Otro de los pilares filosóficos del budismo son las Cuatro Nobles Verdades, que fueron proclamadas por Buda después de alcanzar el estado de Nirvana. Establecen primeramente que todo lo que está sujeto a surgir también lo está a cesar; la Segunda Verdad afirma que la causa del sufrimiento es el deseo, la tTercera que este sufrimiento puede cesar, y por último, la Cuarta nos dice que existe un camino para esta cesación del sufrimiento. Lo que significa que, al menos teóricamente, parece ser una religión que se ha mostrado muy activa en la búsqueda de la felicidad, y por tanto también de esa “libertad” interior.

Una monja de la comunidad se acerca hasta nuestra mesa y susurra algunas palabras al oído de Jordi. Él responde con un gesto afirmativo. Tiene que interrumpir la entrevista porque el abad de la comunidad, el lama Jamyang Tashi Dorje Rinpoche, va a despedirse de sus discípulos antes de partir hacia Perú, donde visitará el monasterio de Cuzco y permanecerá allí durante unos cuantos meses. Jordi se levanta notablemente nervioso de la mesa a causa de la emoción que le provoca ese momento y se dirige hacia la entrada del palacio, donde ya están esperando el resto de los discípulos.

Rinpoche fue el fundador del monasterio y actualmente es el director espiritual de la comunidad. Es un señor de 60 años, barcelonés de nacimiento, que inicialmente estudió Medicina, pero que luego empezó a descubrir la fe budista en Francia a través de uno de sus guías espirituales, el maestro Gueshe Lobsang Tengye.



Los monjes se posicionan en semicírculo fuera del palacio, y me sorprende ver la solemnidad que reflejan sus rostros mientras esperan a su maestro, que ya se ve venir por el camino. Viene acompañado de otros monjes que llevan algunos objetos que servirán para oficiar la cerimonia. Cuando el maestro llega donde están todos, se cierra el círculo al alrededor de él para que todos puedan escuchar lo que les tiene que comunicar. Jordi y los demás monjes se separan un poco del maestro y éste va uno por uno a tocarles la cabeza en un gesto de bendición. A causa de la emoción del momento se puede ver como las lágrimas caen por las mejillas de algunos monjes.

Esta liturgia me recuerda a los curas católicos que dedican ese mismo gesto a los creyentes. Supongo que la comparación es inevitable dado el bagaje religioso que llevamos con nosotros en un país tan católico históricamente como España. Cuando acaba la despedida le pregunto a Jordi sobre la influencia occidental que ha debido recibir la práctica de una religión oriental como es la budista. “Esta claro que ha habido un proceso de adaptación. No podemos vivir en occidente e ignorar lo que nos ofrece esta sociedad: innovación, comunicaciones, tecnología...” comenta Jordi.

A mi, en cambio, me sigue pareciendo curiosa la mezcla. El budismo es una religión que fomenta el ascetismo, la conciencia plena y la reflexión, conceptos difíciles de comprender en un mundo donde la comunicación tiene como límite los140 caráteres de Twitter y el estrés forma parte de nuestro día a día. Jordi, en cambio, me contradice: “estarás distraído o no según tu te trabajes, pero si que es verdad que para nosotros es más difícil, porque ya desde pequeños se nos cultiva en la distracción, para no afrontar nuestro mundo emocional. Por eso los grandes centros comerciales o los cines están llenos”.

Hacen un taller de relajación a las 12 y nos dicen que estamos invitados a asistir. Nos despedimos de Jordi y vamos a la clase donde lo imparten. Cuando llegamos ya están todos preparados, somos un total de 11 personas más la profesora, que es una monja del monsaterio. Como medio de financiación y disfusión de sus enseñanzas, los monjes hacen cursos de todo tipo en el monasterio: de meditación, reiki, estudios filosóficos budistas, etc.y cada uno de ellos tiene asignada su rutina diaria. Además organizan visitas guiadas al museo, alquilan algunas estancias del palacio y mantienen un bar-restaurante dentro del centro.

Desde el suelo, tumbados sobre unas esterillas, el grupo intenta seguir las intrucciones que va dando la profesora acerca de como debemos respirar. Las indicaciones enseguida parecen surtir efecto porque del fondo de la clase se comienza a oír el ronquido de uno de los participantes. Cuando acabamos la sesión todo el cuerpo parece pesarte más de lo habitual, pero la mente la sientes despejada.

Spaguettis, croquetas de un sabor indescifrable, sopas de verduras, arroces, pescado... El menú de la cocina del monasterio parece una obra posmodernista donde se mezclan los sabores orientales y occidentales, los elaborados y sencillos, bajo el título de “comida energética”. Se trata de un buffet libre y abundante aunque no demasiado económico (15 euros).

Al salir de comer, seguimos con nuestra agenda y esta vez vamos a una clase donde se hará una charla sobre la meditación. Nada más entrar nos ofrecen té con leche y canela, una bebida típica tibetana, y nos invitan a sentarnos en las sillas que están colocadas formando un círculo. Esta vez también es una monja la que dirige la charla. El tema del sufrimiento se hace recurrente. Una chica explica su situación personal e insiste sobre la frustración que sufre en su búsqueda de la felicidad. Son muchas las personas que parecen acercarse al centro en busca de consuelo y soluciones mágicas a sus problemas, pero la monja aclara que “la meditación es solo una técnica” y reconoce que “la gente que viene al monasterio a pedir que le enseñen a meditar, muchas veces en realidad vienen a buscar ayuda”.

Contradicciones y paradojas de la vida: una mujer que está en posición de meditación, manteniendo los ojos cerrados y escuchando antentamente las palabras de la monja, viste una camiseta de color militar con el símbolo del dólar indundándole el pecho, en un estallido de lentejuelas y brillantitos. Recorro la estancia con la mirada mientras se oye de fondo la voz de la monja que habla sobre la serenidad en la meditación y de la atención consciente. Mientras lo hago me encuentro con gafas Dior, I love NY y fondos militares que dan un toque peculiar a la escena.

Cuando te imaginas a un budista te viene a la cabeza un hombre gordo y calvo, que transmite tranquilidad, cruzado de piernas y mostrando una sonrisa de oreja a oreja. Pero en lo único que se parece la monja que da la charla a este grotesco personaje de nuestra imaginación es en la postura que mantiene. Por lo demás, desmiente todos los tópicos: se muestra inquieta, poco segura de sí misma en algunas ocasiones (se corrige a menudo y desprestigia alguna de sus propias aportaciones), se muestra irreverente en algunos casos (se le escapan algunas palabras malsonantes que admite tenerlas prohibidas) e incluso llega a afirmar, “yo porque ya estoy aquí, vestida con este hábito y convertida en monja , porque si no, de haber conocido antes el camino, no estaría aquí”.

Cuando salimos de la charla nos dirigimos al museo, donde nos espera otra monja del monasterio para hacermos una visita guiada por el precio de 5,50 euros. El museo se llama Monjes budistas Sakya Tashi Ling y está situado en el Palau Novella, la que fue la antigua residencia de unos indianos que se arruinaron y se vieron obligados a vender el palacio. En el interior de la residencia hay una colección de piezas de arte budistas, algunas muy ostentosas decoradas con oro, símbolo de lo sagrado (iluminado), y otras más sencillas, pero no por ello menos sorprendentes, cargadas de simbolismo y tradición. Asímismo se han conservado muchas piezas, objetos y pertenencias de los que fueron los antiguos dueños del palacio, como una bañera muy antigua que fue traída especialmente desde Inglaterra, para que los visitantes del museo también puedan disfrutar de ellas.


Vamos a acabar nuestro día en el monasterio después de asistir a las oraciones que hacen los monjes a las 21h, pero antes decidimos ir a echar un vistazo a la tienda de “souvenirs” que hay en la entrada. Como no podía ser de otra manera, nos encontramos aquí también, como en todo el monasterio, con el retrato de Rinpoche, que cualquier persona puede comprar y llevárselo a casa. A parte de eso la tienda parece el típico establecimiento donde se venden recuerdos y souvenirs turísticos: hay llaveros, bisutería, camisetas, incienso, postales, etc.

Al salir de la tienda ya escuchamos de lejos los instrumentos que nos indican que las oraciones van a comenzar. Nos dirigimos al interior de una de las estancias del centro y entramos donde están todos reunidos, sin hacer ruido. El cántico de los monjes es repetitivo y monótono y a fuerza de ello induce a la relajación y a la meditación. La unión de las voces y los instrumentos favorecen la concentración y crean un ambiente sosegado. Algunos monjes leen de papeles apaisados lo que van recitando, pero otros ya no los necesitan porque lo saben de memoria. Al salir nos despedimos de todos ellos y les agradecemos su paciencia y amabilidad.

Nos vamos del monasterio satisfechos después de haber visto como es su funcionamiento y su día a día. A pesar de ello, da la sensación de que hay algunas incongruencias respecto a la organización y el modo de financiación del centro, a causa de la mercantilización que se hace de algunos símbolos religiosos y de los rituales. Pero en general la visita es recomendable y creo que el monasterio puede llegar a ser un lugar de reflexión y de debate alternativo muy interesante.

Los puñales y las lanzas no son tan afiladas como algunas lenguas...
(Proverbio malayo que aparece en la web del monasterio).

13 comentaris:

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